In May 2014, I did a video showing that the iPhone does NOT charge faster with an iPad charger. With the iPhone 6, there are claims that it does charge faster with an iPad charger, so here’s an updated video for the iPhone 6.
The claims are right. While the iPhone 6 draws ~1A from the iPhone and LG chargers, it managed to draw ~1.2 to 1.3A from the iPad and generic charger. So yes, the iPhone 6 will charge faster with an iPad charger.
I was exploring a low-cost method to get mobile broadband in the car. The Huawei E122 was the cheapest 3G dongle on ebay – only USD19.99. I bought it, along with the TP-Link TL-WR703N, a compact, USB-powered router that supports 3G dongles. The E122 isn’t listed as a supported 3G modem, and it indeed isn’t supported.
My next step was to flash OpenWRT on it. To my surprise, it didn’t work either. I Googled and tried several things, but nothing worked until I tried the commands I found in an over three-year-old thread on Ubuntu Forums. The very last post by the thread starter himself, mvip, posts a wvdial config file that he says he managed to get working for his E122. I simply translated it into a chatscript (used by OpenWRT). And…
Now I have Wi-Fi in my car, cobbled together for under USD50.
My chatscript for the E122:
ABORT 'NO CARRIER'
OK "ATZ E0 V1"
SAY "Calling UMTS/GPRS"
CONNECT ' '
Since a few years ago, I’ve been using an iPad charger to charge my iPhone. I always thought it charged faster, though I was never able to (or rather, never got around to trying to) verify it. Google gave mixed answers. Engineers and technical people said it doesn’t matter, that the iPhone will draw 1A regardless of how much current the charger is able to provide. Some people swear that their phones do charge faster.
First, some background. The USB port on a computer provides 500mA, or 0.5A. A standard iPhone charger provides 1A of current, while iPad chargers provide 2.1 or 2.4A. An iPhone plugged into a computer charges slower, and this is not surprising since the phone is only able to draw half the current it can normally draw. An iPad that is plugged into a computer will not charge, and may not even maintain the battery level if the iPad is being used. This same iPad plugged into an iPhone charger (1A) will charge, but slower than if it were plugged into an iPad charger (2.1/2.4A).
Then I started to wonder, if I plug an iPhone into an iPad charger, will the iPhone draw more current, and hence charge faster?
Recently, I suddenly thought of testing this out, and thanks to a cheap USB power meter, I was able to run a simple experiment.
It turns out, my perception of charging times was wrong! The iPhone draws 1A current from both chargers.
While randomly pugging the meter around, I seemed to notice that the USB cables seem to affect current draw as well. Perhaps if there’s interest, I can run another experiment on cables.
I wanted to extend the Wi-Fi range by using my D-Link DIR-600 Rev. B. DD-WRT allows configuring a repeater bridge. This seamlessly links up two routers wirelessly. The repeater bridge is especially useful because the second router allows both wired and wireless connections.
Thankfully, repeater bridge is supported on DD-WRT on the DIR-600. I followed the instructions on the DD-WRT wiki, but kept encountering problems. After following through the instructions and applying the settings, I would see two SSIDs broadcasting from the router, and any device connected to the second router could not reach the first router. In addition, the network connections would drop intermittently. After much trial and error, flashing different versions, and searching the Internet, I realised what the problem was! It was from adding the virtual interface!
I re-setup the router, this time omitting the step to add the virtual interface, and everything worked perfectly! My DIR-600 works like a proper repeater, and wireless devices would seamlessly roam across the routers depending on the signal strength. Job well done!
Here are the steps I did (adapted from the DD-WRT Wiki). My primary router is configured with WPA2 AES. The secondary router is running DD-WRT build 14311. The latest build in the DD-WRT router database, build 14896, is buggy.
- Restore Factory Defaults on Secondary (DD-WRT) Router
- Connect your computer to the secondary router via wired LAN port.
- Open the address http://192.168.1.1 in your web browser. Newer versions of DD-WRT will require you to set a password before you can continue.
- Open the Wireless -> Basic Settings tab
- Physical Interface Section
- Wireless Mode : Repeater Bridge
- Wireless Network Mode : Must Match Primary Router
- Wireless Network Name(SSID) : Must Match Primary Router exactly including exact case- Make sure you spell this correctly
- Wireless Channel : Must Match Primary Router (This will disappear once you put it in RB mode, and isn’t needed)
- Wireless SSID Broadcast : Enable
- Network Configuration : Bridged
- Open the Wireless -> Wireless Security tab
- Physical Interface Section
- Security Mode : Must Match Primary Router and DD-wrt only works reliably with WEP or WPA2-AES
- WPA Algorithms : Must Match Primary Router
- WPA Shared Key : Must Match Primary Router
- Key Renewal Interval (in seconds) : Leave default
- Open the Setup -> Basic Setup tab
- Connection Type will be: Disabled
- Set STP for Disabled (Enabled sometimes can cause connection problems) redhawk
- IP Address : 192.168.1.2 (Assuming Primary Router IP is 192.168.1.1)
- Mask : 255.255.255.0
- Gateway: 192.168.1.1 (again assuming Primary Router IP is 192.168.1.1)
- DHCP Server: Disable
- Local DNS: 192.168.1.1 (if IP of Primary Router is 192.168.1.1)
- Assign WAN Port to Switch : Optionally enable this to use the WAN port as another LAN port.
- Open Setup -> Advanced Routing tab
- Set Operating mode to “Router”
- Open Services
- Open the Security -> Firewall tab
- Uncheck all boxes…except Filter Multicast
- Disable SPI firewall
- APPLY Settings
- Reboot the router.